Update - I’m now running 4s lipos 99% time – click here FOR THE CORSAIR POSTS
After waiting well over a month for the Turnigy motor and several other parts to arrive I finally had the chance to get the motor and esc installed. Here is a breakdown again of what I purchased and installed. Also listed is some of the parts that I am currently using in conjunction with the new Turnigy 3536c motor.
- Turnigy TR 35-36C 1100kv Brushless Outrunner-discontinued.
- Alternate motors – (1) (2) (3) (4)
- Turnigy Plush 60amp Speed Controller
- Turnigy 35-XX series Spare accessory pack (backup)
- Turnigy AerodriveXp 35-36 Shaft (not needed)
- Turnigy BESC Programming Card
- Custom RC Motor Mount for Corsair
- Turnigy Watt Meter Power Analyzer
- Zippy 3s 2200mAh 30C Batteries
- Polymax Gold 3.5mm Bullet Connectors
New! Test Flight On Board Video Here
The installation of the new Turnigy 36-36c motor was very easy. I first had to solder on new 3.5mm bullet connectors on the new Turnigy Plush 60a ESC. I use Deans Ultra Plugs for my battery connections so I soldered a Male Deans on the other end of the ESC. Next step was to simply attach the Turnigy 3536c motor to the CustomRC’s Motor mount. Before adding the screws through the mount to the motor I added some Blue Loctite to the screw threads to ensure that they will not loosen over time. Th3536c now attached to the mount was simply screw to the Corsair’s firewall with the included screws. Everything fit fine and I then connected the motors bullet connectors to the new ESC bullet connectors. The Turnigy Plush 60A speed control is larger both in amps and physical size to the original stock Eflite 30a ESC. Because of this I placed the new 60a ESC to the side of the battery using double sided foam tape.
I also should point out that the 3536c wires are tiny. They are smaller diameter than the insulating cover, quite a bit. In addition the bullet connectors on the motor come already soldered and installed. One of the wires came loose in flight which caused loss of power on takeoff. Upon further investigation the solder joint was absolute crap and looked dirty which was the reason it came out. I quickly soldered a higher quality connector on with a much solid connection. Situation corrected but made me cautious of the other “pre-soldered” connections.
Stock VS 3536C
Plush 60A ESC
The Turnigy programming card was then used to confirm the settings for the new motor. The stock programming within the new 60A ESC seemed ok but I wanted to tweak it just a little. I found it rather entertaining that the ESC comes with perhaps 10 different start up songs that you can choose from. I quickly tried a few examples to amuse myself but came to the conclusion that I do not want to listen to the extended music EVERY TIME I connect a battery to the ESC. It’s entertaining as a change from all my other ESC’s but I imagine the music would get old pretty quick. I’ll re-program it back on to show off to my other RC friends as a half ass attempt on making them jealous of my melodious ESC. So back to the REAL programming. I changed the voltage cutoff to High. This will soft cut the voltage at a higher voltage to protect my lipo’s from discharging to low. It should cutoff at 3.1v per cell x 3S = 9.3v which is a lot lower than I would want but is the highest setting available. I changed the timing to High which should give it high performance and the static test runs using this seems to work fine. That was all the programming needed and the card allowed these changes instantly.
Original Program Settings
The next step was to connect the Turnigy Power Analyzer and do some testing to see how much power the 3536c can generate with a specific battery then with a specific prop. This was one of my biggest disappointments which revealed a few problems with my setup. It was very underpowered, at least compared to my expectations, and it became obvious that I would not be able to use my current 3s 2200mAh 25c and 15C batteries. My old batteries were not able to deliver the power based a combination of their age/use and overstated C rating. Bottom line is the main motor testing was done when I received my new batteries and WHOA! Huge difference between the tests comparing my new setup with the old batteries VS the new 30C batteries. I have several different props that I wanted to try so I recorded a few results below.
Turnigy 35-36C 1100KV Motor Prop Tests for AMPS and WATTS
** Stock Motor and ESC using older 3s 2200mAh 25c batt and Master Airscrew 10×8 **
Master Airscrew 10×8
Master Airscrew 11×7
Parkzone Messerschmitt BF-109 3-blade 10.6×7.8
716.5 watts !
65.02 amps !
Master Airscrew 3-blade 10X7 (little worn)
Master Airscrew 12×7
Parkzone prop 9.5×7.5
I have several more props that I ordered and when they arrive I will update the results here. Even with all the extra power the new Turnigy 35-36c generates at the flying field I was still not completely satisfied. I was expecting a MASSIVE change in flight speeds and therefore the necessity of reinforcement of the wings and other control surfaces because of the additional thrust and speed. Now don’t get me wrong the Corsair is plenty fast with the new motor, just not the “HOLY SHI*! What did I do” type of modification. It’s certainly a new plane and has impressed my other RC friends with the speeds and sounds and maybe this is where I should stay for awhile before I do damage to the airframe and rip the wings off trying to look for more power. The new motor has dropped my flight times considerably. I’m getting about 8mins top per flight and more realistic 6mins using a lot of full throttle. I may purchase additional batteries this time with larger mAh to provide longer flights.
More later including some flight video I’ve take using the key chain camera and also new prop testing. I also have my new motors for my Parkzone Stryker build along with the new Spektrum AR500 receiver. I only need a stable motor mount and I will soon be ripping through the skies at 100mph.
Recent Corsair Mods Or Results Here Under The Corsair Tag