I’ve been researching the ways to obtain the actual speed on my planes for quite awhile and there are many options available to our RC community. They range from the various sized personal GPS units, Eagle tree and other data recorders using a pitot tube, Doppler effect using a sound file, and Radar guns.
previous post here
In search for additional performance and speed I’ve reached 81-83mph with the Corsair so far. I think I stick with this level as it seems to be the sweet spot for the reinforced airframe and anything more powerful is asking for trouble. Radar gun information is on my post HERE.
After starting the motor upgrades on the Corsair I am on my 3rd new motor after trying several different options. What I settled on for the moment is the inexpensive MonsterPower15 available (hobbypartz) from a US distributor via Hong Kong. Just to recap my path of upgrades I’ll list them below.
REINFORCE YOUR CORSAIR IF YOU PLAN TO UPGRADE YOUR MOTOR
Servos were upgraded to Metal Gear T-Pro MG90 9gram
With the addition of the first motor upgrade and hard flying the weak point then became the wing and other control surfaces such as the horizontal stabilizer and the vertical stabilizer. These areas were fixed with raw Carbon Fiber Tow which was laid down with an epoxy mix on both sides of the surface. I used CSTsales for my source of Carbon Tow and purchased several different strand count rolls. I used the 50k Tow for the wings. As the Tow is very flexible you can follow the gull wing design of the wing very well. On future reinforcing I will be using the solder iron or dremel to trench a shallow well and embed the Carbon into the wing. The exact approach I used for my Stryker Wing build (here). I also added new metal gear aileron servos. I was going to use the Hitec HS-85mg that I use in my Stryker but picked up (2) PKZ1090 and added extensions. The stock nylon servos suck as everyone who owns a Corsair can attest.
Now granted my Corsair has lost her looks over the years but that’s the point I have flying the heck out of it for years and repairs along the way add personality lol.
Conclusion is the 3536c wasn’t proving enough speed for my expecations.
The MonsterPower 25 was heavy and it’s low KV required a large prop and even then wasn’t delivering the speed and results however the torque and vertical were fun.
The MonsterPower 15 so far has been the sweet spot with a 4s and 12″ or larger prop. I have a radar gun that we will use on it and look forward to posting results.
MonsterPower 15 MY CURRENT MOTOR WATTMETER TESTS:
APC 12x6e 4s – CURRENTLY ON THE CORSAIR
674 w / 47.07a
MAS 11×7 4s 2200mah
555.9w / quick burst 594.3w / 39.39a
APC 11x7e 4s
On board video flying my Parkzone Corsair F4U and my newly installed Turnigy TR 35-36c 1100kv motor. I’m also using my new Plush 60a ESC and new 3s 2200mAh 30c Zippy batteries. This flight is using a Master Airscrew 10×8 -3blade prop that is a little worn. I have amp and wattage testing data on this post here.
I have a lot of full throttle passes on this video as well as limited throttle showing that even on low throttle the Corsair is still faster than the original setup.
Update – I’m now running 4s lipos 99% time – click here FOR THE CORSAIR POSTS
After waiting well over a month for the Turnigy motor and several other parts to arrive I finally had the chance to get the motor and esc installed. Here is a breakdown again of what I purchased and installed. Also listed is some of the parts that I am currently using in conjunction with the new Turnigy 3536c motor.
- Turnigy TR 35-36C 1100kv Brushless Outrunner-discontinued.
- Alternate motors – (1) (2) (3) (4)
- Turnigy Plush 60amp Speed Controller
- Turnigy 35-XX series Spare accessory pack (backup)
- Turnigy AerodriveXp 35-36 Shaft (not needed)
- Turnigy BESC Programming Card
- Custom RC Motor Mount for Corsair
- Turnigy Watt Meter Power Analyzer
- Zippy 3s 2200mAh 30C Batteries
- Polymax Gold 3.5mm Bullet Connectors
The installation of the new Turnigy 36-36c motor was very easy. I first had to solder on new 3.5mm bullet connectors on the new Turnigy Plush 60a ESC. I use Deans Ultra Plugs for my battery connections so I soldered a Male Deans on the other end of the ESC. Next step was to simply attach the Turnigy 3536c motor to the CustomRC’s Motor mount. Before adding the screws through the mount to the motor I added some Blue Loctite to the screw threads to ensure that they will not loosen over time. Th3536c now attached to the mount was simply screw to the Corsair’s firewall with the included screws. Everything fit fine and I then connected the motors bullet connectors to the new ESC bullet connectors. The Turnigy Plush 60A speed control is larger both in amps and physical size to the original stock Eflite 30a ESC. Because of this I placed the new 60a ESC to the side of the battery using double sided foam tape.
I also should point out that the 3536c wires are tiny. They are smaller diameter than the insulating cover, quite a bit. In addition the bullet connectors on the motor come already soldered and installed. One of the wires came loose in flight which caused loss of power on takeoff. Upon further investigation the solder joint was absolute crap and looked dirty which was the reason it came out. I quickly soldered a higher quality connector on with a much solid connection. Situation corrected but made me cautious of the other “pre-soldered” connections.
The Turnigy programming card was then used to confirm the settings for the new motor. The stock programming within the new 60A ESC seemed ok but I wanted to tweak it just a little. I found it rather entertaining that the ESC comes with perhaps 10 different start up songs that you can choose from. I quickly tried a few examples to amuse myself but came to the conclusion that I do not want to listen to the extended music EVERY TIME I connect a battery to the ESC. It’s entertaining as a change from all my other ESC’s but I imagine the music would get old pretty quick. I’ll re-program it back on to show off to my other RC friends as a half ass attempt on making them jealous of my melodious ESC. So back to the REAL programming. I changed the voltage cutoff to High. This will soft cut the voltage at a higher voltage to protect my lipo’s from discharging to low. It should cutoff at 3.1v per cell x 3S = 9.3v which is a lot lower than I would want but is the highest setting available. I changed the timing to High which should give it high performance and the static test runs using this seems to work fine. That was all the programming needed and the card allowed these changes instantly.
The next step was to connect the Turnigy Power Analyzer and do some testing to see how much power the 3536c can generate with a specific battery then with a specific prop. This was one of my biggest disappointments which revealed a few problems with my setup. It was very underpowered, at least compared to my expectations, and it became obvious that I would not be able to use my current 3s 2200mAh 25c and 15C batteries. My old batteries were not able to deliver the power based a combination of their age/use and overstated C rating. Bottom line is the main motor testing was done when I received my new batteries and WHOA! Huge difference between the tests comparing my new setup with the old batteries VS the new 30C batteries. I have several different props that I wanted to try so I recorded a few results below.
Turnigy 35-36C 1100KV Motor Prop Tests for AMPS and WATTS
** Stock Motor and ESC using older 3s 2200mAh 25c batt and Master Airscrew 10×8 **
Master Airscrew 10×8
Master Airscrew 11×7
Parkzone Messerschmitt BF-109 3-blade 10.6×7.8
716.5 watts !
65.02 amps !
Master Airscrew 3-blade 10X7 (little worn)
Master Airscrew 12×7
Parkzone prop 9.5×7.5
I have several more props that I ordered and when they arrive I will update the results here. Even with all the extra power the new Turnigy 35-36c generates at the flying field I was still not completely satisfied. I was expecting a MASSIVE change in flight speeds and therefore the necessity of reinforcement of the wings and other control surfaces because of the additional thrust and speed. Now don’t get me wrong the Corsair is plenty fast with the new motor, just not the “HOLY SHI*! What did I do” type of modification. It’s certainly a new plane and has impressed my other RC friends with the speeds and sounds and maybe this is where I should stay for awhile before I do damage to the airframe and rip the wings off trying to look for more power. The new motor has dropped my flight times considerably. I’m getting about 8mins top per flight and more realistic 6mins using a lot of full throttle. I may purchase additional batteries this time with larger mAh to provide longer flights.
More later including some flight video I’ve take using the key chain camera and also new prop testing. I also have my new motors for my Parkzone Stryker build along with the new Spektrum AR500 receiver. I only need a stable motor mount and I will soon be ripping through the skies at 100mph.
Recent Corsair Mods Or Results Here Under The Corsair Tag
Update – there is a newer HD 1280×720 HD version of the key chain on the market now (2011). RCGroups has a great thread with a lot of information and tips on this new $40 HD camera HERE. It takes phenomal footage for the price and easily mounts with velcro to top of my hat.
I also use the HobbyKing HD Wing camera with fantastic results and highly recommend purchasing it. It has a slightly wider lens which I really like and the video quality is great both used on the ground mounted with velcro on the top bill of my hat or mounted on my rc airplanes. Here is a on-board video I used with the HobbyKing HD Wing Camera.